Comments on: Hot Composting vs Vermicomposting http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/ Composting, Gardening, Sustainable Living Sat, 31 Jul 2010 06:33:32 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 hourly 1 By: eric http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/comment-page-1/#comment-25407 eric Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:58:09 +0000 http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/#comment-25407 you should mention that hot composting generates compost, not nutrient rich fertilizer. compost generally adds great texture to your garden, but not much NPK. vermicomposting generates nutrient rich fertilizer which is high in NPK. you should mention that hot composting generates compost, not nutrient rich fertilizer. compost generally adds great texture to your garden, but not much NPK. vermicomposting generates nutrient rich fertilizer which is high in NPK.

]]> By: Count of Anjou http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/comment-page-1/#comment-24098 Count of Anjou Wed, 26 May 2010 16:50:22 +0000 http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/#comment-24098 Mark, the short answer as to how you achieve the optimal C:N ratio is you blend your materials in the hot compost pile. Practically speaking, it depends on what materials you will be hot composting. I hot compost the manure/bedding from 10 horses to achieve a nice product of about 40 cubic yards per year (taking into account the 50% reduction in volume due to decomposition). Horse manure with bedding is already the perfect mix. If you were using higher nitrogen manures (pig or chicken), then you would need to add a substantial amount of high carbon material to balance the mix... like leaves, newspaper, or sawdust. Obviously, the same would apply to vegetable scraps. How do you know when you have the right blend, you ask? That's the trial and error part of this. First, active hot composting should reach temperatures of 140-160°F in a few days for a pile of at least 1 cubic yard in volume. If the pile is damp, but is getting towards 160°F, you need more carbon in the mix. If the pile never heats up, it is too small or needs more nitrogen-based "green materials. If the pile is cooking nicely and then cools down to 100°F after awhile, it's time to turn the pile to reaerate it. I've found that turning the pile monthly is adequate. Weekly is certainly better, but not necessary... it just takes longer for the composting process to finish. It is very important as you can guess to buy a composting thermometer (ReoTemp has quality ones for a reasonable price). When the hot compost pile looks and smells like rich soil, it's done. The temperature will be <100°F. Voila! Mark, the short answer as to how you achieve the optimal C:N ratio is you blend your materials in the hot compost pile. Practically speaking, it depends on what materials you will be hot composting. I hot compost the manure/bedding from 10 horses to achieve a nice product of about 40 cubic yards per year (taking into account the 50% reduction in volume due to decomposition). Horse manure with bedding is already the perfect mix. If you were using higher nitrogen manures (pig or chicken), then you would need to add a substantial amount of high carbon material to balance the mix… like leaves, newspaper, or sawdust. Obviously, the same would apply to vegetable scraps. How do you know when you have the right blend, you ask? That’s the trial and error part of this. First, active hot composting should reach temperatures of 140-160°F in a few days for a pile of at least 1 cubic yard in volume. If the pile is damp, but is getting towards 160°F, you need more carbon in the mix. If the pile never heats up, it is too small or needs more nitrogen-based “green materials. If the pile is cooking nicely and then cools down to 100°F after awhile, it’s time to turn the pile to reaerate it. I’ve found that turning the pile monthly is adequate. Weekly is certainly better, but not necessary… it just takes longer for the composting process to finish. It is very important as you can guess to buy a composting thermometer (ReoTemp has quality ones for a reasonable price). When the hot compost pile looks and smells like rich soil, it’s done. The temperature will be <100°F. Voila!

]]> By: Union Glashutte Watches http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/comment-page-1/#comment-21733 Union Glashutte Watches Sun, 31 Jan 2010 23:51:22 +0000 http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/#comment-21733 I have had much more luck with vermicomposting because I like to continually add to my pile. I don't like the "wait and don't touch it" game... I also live in a really warm climate (Houston) so we are able to do this year round. Thanks for the post. -Sylvia I have had much more luck with vermicomposting because I like to continually add to my pile. I don’t like the “wait and don’t touch it” game… I also live in a really warm climate (Houston) so we are able to do this year round. Thanks for the post.
-Sylvia

]]> By: Mark http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/comment-page-1/#comment-20290 Mark Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:42:08 +0000 http://www.compostguy.com/composting/hot-composting-vs-vermicomposting/#comment-20290 You state that: Hot composting can be achieved when materials in the pile have a C:N of between 20:1 and 40:1, but ideally it should be between 25:1 and 30:1. Okay, so how does one acheive this ratio? You state that:

Hot composting can be achieved when materials in the pile have a C:N of between 20:1 and 40:1, but ideally it should be between 25:1 and 30:1.

Okay, so how does one acheive this ratio?

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